All Souls Day

November the first is a holiday in Spain. It is also the day of the largest market in Galicia at Monte Rosso, a delightful town in the centre of Lugo Province.
The market (feira) is where farmers and smallholders sell their dried beans, chestnuts, honey, ham, bacon- you name it, it’s for sale.
There’s also a delicacy for sale – Pan con Uvas, which is a very solid, large round loaf of bread baked with fresh grapes. It looks fabulous and is immensely indigestible.
Monte Rosso Feira is also famous for its weather. The rain, it raineth all day, but mostly on the town of Monte Rosso. I have rarely seen such rain outside of Asia. It’s November, so of course, it’s cold as well, ¡carallo!
We decided not to venture out and try our luck. Some very good and kind friends took me to the Feira in our first year here and I bought a handwoven, artisan poncho, which is the warmest garment that I possess.
If I were to go today, I’d probably come home with some socks. No, I’d definitely come home with some handspun, hand woven socks. Ah well. Maybe next year.
The summer weather didn’t linger here this year. We took some delightful trips to the Rias Baixas (the lower Rias), which have stunning beaches and very expensive houses overlooking them. It’s nice in September, but the whole of Spain and his mujer descend on Vigo and Baionna and Pontevedra and Sanxenxo in summer.
We prefer the north coast, where a busy day has maybe 20 people on the beaches.
The west coast is packed on those days, okay, not all of it. The touristy bits stop at Noia. North of Noia is the Costa de Muerte, with few beaches and very strong winds. Not for sun lovers.
I shall celebrate All Souls Day with some bhajis. Not exactly traditional Galician food. I’ll have a little mouthful of a Galegan delicacy as well – a small glass of a new premium gin, called Nordes, Atlantic Galician Gin.
Premium gin is like face cream. The more it costs, the better it is. This works up to a point, but in general the two products have a lot in common. Shiny or chic packaging and very expensive contents.

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